Hilary didn’t have to drive 955 miles just so I could see my dog, but she did!

Stef and Andrew were dog sitting Sophie, whilst we were at the Warwick Folk Festival, however they had booked a camping holiday with their dog, Tuss, on the Isle of Skye so we decided to join them for a few days and pick up Sophie.

Day 1. Friday 29th July
After some leisurely packing over a couple days, including a big bread bake where Hilary does the long kneed and I complete the easier baking finish, the car is packed tight as we’re taking Hilary’s mum, Jean, to stay with cousin Susan in Kirkintillock for a few days.  The handover is at Hamilton Services and Susan will bring Jean home on Monday.  An uneventful trip really to Fort Augustus where we are breaking the journey at a B &B before continuing to Skye; a gorgeous sunny trip up the side of Loch Lomond and then through Glen Coe – it is stunning; unfortunately we could not quite see the top of Ben Nevis as we exited Fort William, but still saw snow in a north facing gully.
The Holt B&B is next to the Caledonian Canal locks. Isle of Skye 001I ask myself is this towpath a possible future list candidate? sure is in some fantastic scenery, but not one for day trips from Ilkley!  Isle of Skye 002Loch Ness looks good in evening light. We have a below average meal at the Boathouse Restaurant on the Loch Side. The B&B is good but with a mild lingering aroma of deep heat from the previous guests which, given our ski experience, is not too much of an issue with a very comfortable bed.

Day 2. Saturday 30th July

Isle of Skye 003After a good breakfast and chat looking over the remains of the railway bridge from a pre Beeching 1947 closure of a steam train line, we head towards Skye, passed the 5 sisters and that Eilean Donan Castle (neither photographed) along to The Three Chimneys for lunch at the other side of Skye. We are a tad early so time to drop in on the Talisker Distilley to acquire a bottle of warmth – Talisker Storm. In text contact with Andrew and Stef who happen to be heading in same way, and we pass them on road. Timings are good and we get to restaurant half an hour early.

After lovely lunch, during which the Woodland Cod was the stand out course, we head to the campsite. Isle of Skye 009aAnother good pitch and set up just before Andrew and Stef get back. Sophie bounces to see us but as usual after a few mins of complete madness is back to just being herself and annoying Tuss!! I have to say I get tent envy with our friends’ set up – Fully integrated ground sheet, double bed and 2 dog crates in the sleeping compartment and a “carpeted/rugged” living quarter – very smart.

Andrew took me and the dogs to see the dog walk area – really great resource for the site stretching about 1/4 mile along the loch side with acres of inland space for the dogs to roam in. Our evening meal is the cheese, bread etc… with wine (yes I took a wine box!), beer and a drop of whiskey plus some sloe gin that Andrew and Stef had brought.

Day 3. Sunday 31 July

Up early to make tea and coffee before a morning walk with Hilary, Andrew and dogs.

Breakfast is beans, bread and cheese. We head into Portree – the big metrop and wander into town to book a boot trip for next day.

 

In the afternoon we drive south of Portree to Camas a Mhor-bheoil Cove via a gentle stroll. Some great views back towards Trotternish and opportunity for the dogs to play.

There was a family playing cricket, which did not stop me stripping off for a very bracing dip.

Sophie, who now loves water, swam out to sea with me.

Andrew is invited out to fish in a boat on the Loch by the campsite in the afternoon and caught loads of mackerel using feathers. So many were caught that the boat owner left them by the washrooms for other campers to have.  We had 8 for us and 2 for dogs, all of which were BBQ’d and served with salads etc for a really lovely evening.

Day 4. Monday 1 August

We awake to a really still morning with a mirror Loch before us and the friendly locals watching over us from behind.

Prior to our boat trip we do a walk through a wood to Loch a Ghlinne Bhig with the aim for me to have a wild swim. Time is against us, so no swim and we head to Portree for our boat trip with wonderful views of the Cuillins.

We did get to see 2 White Sea Eagles on the boat trip, however they just sat still, so no great views. Such a still afternoon meant we missed seeing dolphins, but did see a seal and many Guillemots.

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By now Andrew and Stef’s tent has been renamed the Armadillo lounge for the pre evening meal drinks and the Armadillo Bistro for the evening repast of pasta and a wonderful sauce created by Stef. Its now that Hilary suggests that since Sophie is enjoying camping so much and Stef and Andrew seem to like having her that we leave her in Skye for an extended holiday.  Well at least I had visiting rights!

Day 5. Tuesday 2 August

Breakfast at the Armadillo Grill of rosti with egg and cheese. Lovely sunny morning with some super views of the cattle next door

On reading through the walking guide book, I pick a walk round the Greshornish peninsula.  We start out along the eastern edge, where Andrew stops for a quick fish whilst a shepherd drives his flock past us, and gets 2 small Pollocks which he returns.

On making for the headland we see a good variety of flora and fauna.

Once we get to the headland and head back along the western coast we get great views of Harris and Lewis and the cliff edges. However, the guide’s promise of pottering it is not, but instead a thrash through heather, bracken and trees up to neck high at points- not pleasant. Eventually we find a path that is spectacular along the cliff edge and reach the cove of destination just as the rain arrives. Andrew fishes and catches 1 good sized pollock. I have a dip – freezing but enough time (a minute if that!) to see vibrant green seaweed and shoals of baby Pollock.

Its just a short walk on a good path to car and back to the tents. Unfortunately we have sad news about the death of a friend’s dad, so drive to Portree to charge the phone, and then a drive out to Waternish hunting signal. We find a patch of signal a few yards wide with a mast in the distance to send a text. Back to the Armadillo Lounge for cocktails and evening meal of Fish Stew from Stef’s good hands and mixed ingredient contributions.

Day 6. Wednesday 3 August

We wake up to rain and it’s a wet decamp packing up most things before breakfast at the ‘Grill’ and then take tent down in wet. On the road at 11:30 for long trek to Sam and Tim’s. A long drive but through wonderful scenery 7 hours later we arrive.

Day 7. Thursday 4 August

The last leg home – but not the end of the story – that’s one for Stef and Andrew to tell.